A green and clean environment is a human right!
Electrolysis => Electrolysis => Our Alternator => Topic started by: jrmalin on May 02, 2008, 00:02:53 am
-
I came across an old Dodge alternator, free of course, and thought this would work ok for the 3 phase aternator setup
Spec: 1984 Dodge B-150 van 5.2L (318) engine .
this model of alternator is very easy to take apart and as you will see in the photos, poke the stator wires out the back.
-
This alternator features externally replaceable brushes, external voltage regulator, internal diode pack ( 1 positive and 1 negitive pack).
to start remove the brush holders from the back they each have 1 screw holding it in the housing and will slide out ( radially or axially depending on which brusch you are removing)
set them aside as you will be reinstalling them.
next, remove the (3) screws from the pulley side that hold the case together.
the stator windings will stay with the rear half of the case when parted.
-
split the cases
-
The easy way to split the case halves is to smack it on the stator laminations ( the steel plates) not really hard, the place a pry bar or medium screw driver inbetween the front case ( the one with the pulley) and the stator laminations, and pry the front off. DO NOT damage the insulation on the wires!
next, in the bottom of the rear case you will see the 2 diode bridges with the 3 stator wires bolted to the. Remove the 3 nuts from the studs holding the stator wires and lift the stator out.
-
now you can remove the diode sets, and reinstall the stator assembly into the rear case. Before reinstalling the stator assembly, bend the 3 leads so the will poke out of the holes in the back of the rear case. Mine has 2 wires in 1 hole, 1 wire 1 hole. The wires will have to line up as well as the bolt thru holes in the stator.
-
Now withe the stator lined up and the wires thru the holes, set the front half withe the rotor into the rear case half, lining up the mount and bolt holes. It should push together fairly easy. Make sure it is together and then install the 3 screws that hold the 2 halves together. tighten the 3 screws evenly to pull it together straight, and torque snug with a short wrench.
Now reinstall the brushes, and your ready to make a mount / drive system!
These alternators a cheap Around $55.00 usd, rebuit without a core. No regulator easy disassembly and assembly, easy to mount. Hope it works! I'm going to spin in in my lathe and see what happens ... add a little electric and take some readings.
I will be working on the diode and electric motor connection soon! I will post follow up if your interested, let me know by reply or mail. If you would like bigger photos, let me know and I will upload the to a web page
-
Here is the 3 phase conversion, tapping the wye. Disassemble the alternator, remove the stator, flip it over so the 3 taps are facing you and you should see a piece of insulating tubing over the wye connection (see photo 1, red tubing). pull the connection up easy for access, and remove the insulating tubing. I chose to crimp the connection with a copper barrel fitting, or you can solder. the cover it with heat shrink tubing and reassemble.
-
now I'm ready for the mount and diodes
-
Here's the mount, a little bit of unistrut a 1/3hp electric motor 1725 rpm, some bolts and weld it up!
-
JRMALIN
It look good, But you may want to start looking for a bigger motor.
Here is my experience was an under powered motor.
Posts: 70
View Profile Email Personal Message (Online)
Re: Spikes Cell
« Reply #26 on: March 20, 2008, 11:09:30 PM »
Reply with quote Modify message Remove message
Alternator update
GM 40 amp Alternator, 1/2 hp 1750 rpm 8.7 amp motor
All on tap water, no additives, no circuit, with a 3" pulley on the alternator
3" pulley on motor, with 1 amp 12vdc power supply to rotor= 200cc/min
4" pulley on motor, with 1 amp 12vdc power supply to rotor= Alternator overheating
4" pulley on motor, running wire from stator to rotor=120cc/min
5" pulley on motor, with 1 amp 12vdc power supply to rotor= motor amped out
5" pulley on motor, running wire from stator to rotor= 175cc/min
back to 3" pulley on motor, with 1 amp 12vdc power supply to rotor.
need 1 hp motor next.
And get parts to build hydros circuit to pulse rotor.
Spike
Let us know how it goes
Spike
-
JR,
Great little series there. Thanks for taking the time to break that all down and post pictures. I'm sure that will help many people just starting out with this.
I also agree with Spike. You're going to need a bit more power when you start testing.