A green and clean environment is a human right!
Projects by members => Projects by members => CarbedNotch => Topic started by: CarbedNotch on March 02, 2008, 00:25:49 am
-
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt3phase002.jpg)
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt3phase003.jpg)
This alternator is from a '78 Ford F-150
Looking inside its really confusing. I cannot distinguish these wires. Am I using the correct style alternator?
Thanks.
-
Buck
I'm not sure if this will help, But I found this in an old Chilton
Spike
-
here is the diagram
Spike
-
ohh heck ya Spike!
Thanks man.... So its defenantly got a 3-phase and external voltage regulator.
-
Do I use the output terminals?
output terminal
field terminal
neutral terminal
-
(http://ionizationx.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=97.0;attach=193)
-
I think its all coming together now.... Slowly. I dont have and internal electrical component experience.
I only know about automobile 12v wiring. Auto mechanic and custom installer. (Mostly customs and Mustangs)
-
ooh no im a camaro dude :o
Mr Browngass
-
ooh no im a camaro dude :o
Mr Browngass
Hahaha well lets forget our Chevy and Ford tastes just for this little project. Maybe If we make enough HHO we could power a Camaro or Mustang one day!
-
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt3phase002.jpg)
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt3phase003.jpg)
This alternator is from a '78 Ford F-150
Looking inside its really confusing. I cannot distinguish these wires. Am I using the correct style alternator?
Thanks.
HI,
You have an alternator and it is good enough.
As you see, you have 3 wires going up from the stator.
That is what you need.
Now, you can do many things.
I have removed all other components from the alternator.
The components that I removed are the diodebridges and the voltage regulator.
I took some 3 wires and connected them to the 3 wires off the stator and the 3 wires are going ouside the alternator.
Then its best to re-use the diodebridges. I have mounted them outside the alternator.
The other 2 wires or contacts from the sliprings are for the rotor.
So, you must be able to put from the outside voltage on the rotor.
hopes this helps you out.
If not, just ask.
br
Steve
-
yes this does help very much.
What's the slipring?
Also why wont the housing on mine come apart? Is it really nesasary to take it completely apart?
It is kinda dirty because its out of my mudd truck.
-
It's always best for fully clean the whole mess up and then put fresh thin coating of grease on the shaft/bearing surfaces. Not a lot but enough to protect them. Use a good wheel bearing grease in a light coating. You want something that will stay put and use just a little in case it doesn't. The changes Steve mentions is good advice. If your diodes were to fry, they'd be outside of the unit and easily replaceable.
-
yes this does help very much.
What's the slipring?
Also why wont the housing on mine come apart? Is it really nesasary to take it completely apart?
It is kinda dirty because its out of my mudd truck.
Hi,
Sliprings are the things that look like bearings. The brushes are against them too feed the rotor with current/voltage
On your picture you can see them.
What do you mean with not being able to take the housing apart? Its already open on the pics..?
If it is closed, just use 2 screwdrivers, after you removed the outside nuts and bolts....
Put them between the 2 halfs and brake it open, carefully.
br
Steve
-
steve do you have an external voltage regulator or you just put full power to your brushes
Hi,
No, i do not use an external voltage regulator. I did some tests and I do not like it much.
What I do use depends on what kind of test I wanna do.
I have many options for feeding the rotor with voltage/current.
The way Hydro and I teach here and the way you get resonance, when tuned well, is the pulsed self-sustaining trick.
Rotor powering options:
If you take the output of the 2 diodebridges, meaning the minus and the plus which you can connect to yr wfc, you can split these wires. one set goes to the wfc and one goes to the rotor.
Very simple.
The most important thing, many forget, is that you have to energise the wfc for 3 seconds with a 12V battery.
Then you remove the battery and the alternator is feeding himself and the wfc.
Step1: turn on the drivermotor to turn the alternator
Step2: energise the wfc
Step3: have a good look and have fun with your bubbles.
Remember that this way of providing power to the rotor doesnt produce resonance. But is does provid lots of current and voltage and lots of bubbles. This is simple strait electrolysis with good results.
Step 4: is to use the schematic as provided here in this topic. Thats what gives the best results sofar.
Of course you can put a battery charger on the rotor, or a battery. 6 volts or 12 volts, or use a rectified trafo output.
It really doesnt matter for the rotor.
But remember: The best results are with a pulsed self-sustaining alternator setup, like the schematic here in the topic.
br
Steve
-
carbnotch when you try to put it back together their is a hole at the end of the brush holder you push in the brushes and slide a thin drill bit or tooth pick in their to hold the brushes in .then when its together you pull it out from the hole on the out side of alternator
I'll remember that ;D
-
Yes! I finally got it taken apart... I had to use the impact wrench to take off the pulley.
After I had it apart I washed the parts in carb cleaner and simple green. They are drying out right now.
Still have to get one of the diode bridges out of the back half of the case. I cant get it out just yet because of these plastic pieces that have to be ground off to allow you to put a socket on the nut. I'll post pics soon. I'm very excited and its really hard work doing all this while hopping on one leg. ::)
-
here it is
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/stuff005.jpg)
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/stuff004.jpg)
And here go my 3 wires:
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/stuff006.jpg)
Now I just need to take the bridges out. I'm planning on using a heat gun to make it easy to stuff a socket on those nuts still holding fast.
-
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt.jpg)
-
So I completely take out the diode bridge and re-assemble the alt w/the 3 wires sticking out right?
-
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt001.jpg)
Got the alternator back together with my wires all hooked up.
-
Now what do I do with the diode bridge?
-
hello Carb, you have 6 diodes connected to your stator now, you should now have 2 wires that is dc ouput. you take the rotor wires and hook them to the 2 wires comming from the diodes, this will jump it to full power. to regulate, you add a fet between a wire comming from the rotor going to the stator.
i have been pulsing my rotor lately, i have found it to work very good as well. the self powered way works great, but you have to baby it and change freq all the time, i think i will be moving on to pulsing the rotor even though it uses about 2 amps more to do it this way, i feel its worth it not to have to baby it when its running. the circuit i use to pulse the rotor is just like the dave lawton circuit, but i use around a 4 uf cap, i will have to look.
-
It looks like somebody shoot an alternator.... ;D
Ok,
I read that you have the diodes outside.
Put the 3 wires of the stator to the diodes as you see on the drawing.
If you do not know what the right side of the diodes are, just take a multimeter and measure .
at the end , you have a plus and a minus pole, which you can connect to the wfc.
I see only 3 wires.
You are still able to feed the rotor with power?
br
Steve
-
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt003.jpg)
Got everything mounted.
Thank you hydro and stevie !!!!
-
Today I think I finally got my alternator hooked up right. But for some reason it is output 27volts...
Look at this video I uploaded on u-tube (fast load time).
http://www.youtube.com/v/J5sYPzKCusc
-
Today I think I finally got my alternator hooked up right. But for some reason it is output 27volts...
Look at this video I uploaded on u-tube (fast load time).
http://www.youtube.com/v/J5sYPzKCusc
Hi dude,
27 volts are just fine!
Now i wanna see it all hooked up to your wfc and producing hydrogen!
Where is that vid?
br
Steve
-
right here.... http://www.youtube.com/v/-Dik6TuDeFg
-
I'm producing about 200CC per min.
Its hard to tell tho because if i hip the long hose into the waer too deep it dosent bubble at all. I need to seal up the cell better. But I also plan on getting new tubes. Bigger gap and thicker wall.
-
;DPretty cool!!! ;D
Spike
-
http://www.youtube.com/v/9rS074s25wI
hooked oscilloscope up. heres what it looks like
-
And how does it feel all those nasty bubbles?
Congratulations with the step!
br
Steve
-
looks good! ;D
And feels good too, I bet
Spike
-
Oh yeah it makes tons more bubbles than sourced from a car battery charger. ;D
I bought a pc board at radio shmack so ill be working on pulsing the rotor soon. I have loads of spare parts from old circuits I've worked on.
What I wondered is about the heat being generated by my alternator. I have to open the window and run the fan because it heats up the whole room. Is this normal? Its not glowing hot or anything like that. Just gets real hot.
-
http://www.youtube.com/v/kpBLhiePKeg
This is 2 channel ac waveform
-
http://www.youtube.com/v/emEOsaFq7U8
I rigged 2 alternators to run off my motor. It makes a lot of power. Still doing testing with crossover circuit.
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/DSC02357.jpg)
-
Finally pulsed the circuit and I also made some chokes and experimented with them....
http://www.youtube.com/v/pXlWr4sIPLA -- (Gas output close up)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwx44pVISjk -- (Entire system overview)