Author Topic: Possible ways to reduce amps and increase gas  (Read 8089 times)

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Re: Possible ways to reduce amps and increase gas
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2009, 17:47:24 pm »
o i see.. interesting.. best of luck

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Re: Possible ways to reduce amps and increase gas
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2009, 18:03:59 pm »
if you do this at high temperatures then you are going to get water vapor in your gas output, when you are measuring your output be sure to bubble through cold water, this will take water vapor/steam out of the "gas", and give you a more accurate reading, also hot gas is less dense, so after your run it through a cold bubbler to take out the water vapor, the gas volume will shrink because of the lower temperature. if you then figure hot gas is more efficient in burning in the engine, then you can always reheat the gas with the heat from the exhaust.

There is no water vapor or air bubbles under a heated water surface below boiling point...I am not using steam here.
But i am agree that a cold bubbler test can be done to make a more correct measuring of the output.

Best regards

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Re: Possible ways to reduce amps and increase gas
« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2009, 17:42:38 pm »
I discussed using waste heat to improve efficiency in the water fuelforall forums with very little interest shown.
I'm glad to find someone who shares my enthusiasm for this idea WaytoGo.  :)

Exhaust is too hot for using without increasing cell pressure to keep the electrolyte from boiling without some serious and dangerous high pressure engineering.
Using waste exhaust heat to generate steam and then use the steam in a steam engine (air tool) to generate electricity for a cell is another story.

My idea is to put a cell in the engine coolant loop so that the cell is heated/cooled (temp kept constant) buy the the waste heat that is usually dissipated by the radiator.
(keeping the temp constant like this should enable the use of a more efficient 7 or even 8 series cell)
Now you have the issue of the electrolyte boiling.
The way to stop this is to increase the pressure in the cell and then keep it constant while bleading of any excess for use in the engine.
(increased pressure=smaller bubbles=more electrode surface area=better efficiency)
A pressure release valve will do this nicely.
A radiator cap, the same as the one already in your car, is specifically designed to do all the above at the temperatures being used!  ;)
Then to a bubbler; then to the engine behind the airflow meter or carb:

Because you have pressure you dont have to suck in the HHO.
Adding the HHO before the carb or airflow meter means that fuel is being metered for a mixture that already contains its own fuel and the perfect amount of oxidant.

If you are turning your cell's power generator with waste heat -- steam engine/airtool you end up with free HHO!  ;)