How To Increase High Volts Of Lawn Mower Ignition Coil?

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I finally found a reference on how to increase ignition high volts, quite easily, like Nathren-S1R9A9M9 did, from lawn mower Magnetron output. Data is from 2008, where poster Capacitor70 placed several notes regarding the method. It has to do with adding in 3 capacitors and firing a mounted ADJUSTABLE TYPE SPARK PLUG TESTER The wiring hooks to a  2 1/4" Diam  gray ferrite torroid core FT240-31  as step up transformer with 8 + 24 turns. The secondary side hooks to the main spark plug, and also the additional power supply amps. The transformer wires should be insulated high voltage silicone cables. I am using white 30kv and red 30kv. Winding directions polarity have to be figured. (Automotive ignitions are usually quite high in volts, contrary to lawn mower engine's Magnetron). A Briggs Magnetron is a pre1982 Magneto with a solid state trigger module epoxied in, and is all a one-piece unit.  Total capacitance  in series as less than 1000pf at  6kv to 24kv total. Has to do with speed of resonance of Primary  L and C. Suggested use was 2200pf+3900pf+7500pf. Use electronics formula for capacitors in series. The transformer will work for both negative and positive high voltage. While High V is going, must slowly adjust the first gap, to get the second gap to fire.   EAY purchase orders less costly than Amazon that has minimum $35 order for no shipping charge. Some separate electronics companies have a minimum dollar order plus shipping plus sales tax. Someone back at that time had converted a Volvo 4cyl car engine to water, using the toroid method.  Capacitor70 converted 3 different motorcycle engines that ran on water in carbs.HE said the new method was better than string of series diodes that overheats and melts the solder joints. (I don't see this toroid  as any protection for main power supply.) He said there is an isolation factor. I also don't really believe it was just coincidence that the (2) S1R engine demonstrations came out in the same time summer 2008 as the capacitor70 tech data! Several drawings on Internet are wrong for the spark plug hook up for capacitor70 circuit. SEE THE ACTUAL TOROID CORE PICTURE FOR ORIGINAL USED AS GREEN WIRE HOOKED TO ACCESSORY FIRST  SPARK PLUG TOP! The higher turns brown magnet wire is secondary step up as volts 1:3. The secondary side should hook to spark plug top and ground, CONTRARY TO THE OTHER INTERNET DRAWINGS. The circuit will allow for PLASMA PATH for the following amps injection.See other notes about the S1Rcoils as an actual hand wound step down transformer ratio 13:7, to use the low amps pulsing DC from output of dual alternators ring, to raise it up to flow the 10amps as stated., when only at idling RPM. The 7 turns wound same way as 13 turns, requires the steel nail/screw core underneath for proper magnetic field. The exterior extension cord that's split in the videos, allows connection to ground exactly at spark plug ground. Ground point same as for both 1st spark gap and tap to ground for S1R coils.The elecromagnet also provides the needed field that EXTENDS the spark time - slows it down from 0 to to minus 34 degrees proper late timing. A separate coil L of about 1.75 Millihenry is also in the high voltage line for further time extension. (Car battery first allows current, then removed.) The plastic sealed deli tub on side of Briggs engine contained BOTH the S1r coils assembly + the step up high voltage  pulse transformer with spark gap and capacitors. Nathren had said there were no capacitors used. He was untrained and ignorant, and was thinking about CONDENSERS - the old wording. The three actual technicians in Georgia workshop designed and built all the circuits,- not him. He said so. All this has to do with electrolysis at spark plug for hydrogen gas and water vapor pressure for self running engine, as was shown on Youtube video - S1R9A9M9 (2) videos and Nathren's now shut down web forum.

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Ok, so as of now, there are only about four questions left unanswered regarding the S1R9A9M9 wiring set up on the Briggs 18HP mower engine.

1.-- Why wasn't the same 400 Watt Inverter box used, as was on all the other many earlier car/tractor engine conversions? 110v AC with half wave or full wave rectification. Resistance in circuit is required for 10 amps. The spark plug electrolyte was about 10-22 ohms. There were MANY series diode voltage drops in the autos circuit schematic. The dual coils relay used per cylinder, in the cars, was about 1.2 ohms total of #21 gauge wire. Nathren said that it couldn't be used on mower engine ,as it came in at a frequency and would just bog down and shut off. If he tried to hook it up himself instead of the real technicians, then he didn't know what he was doing. The change  over was then done with car 12v battery. -----Possibility as ,- an Inverter box will bog down exactly when the starter motor is turned on , while using the SAME battery. Over 50 amps draw will reduce initial battery volts that the Inverter needs. The earlier Georgia car engine conversions , all used a 2nd. accessory battery for the conversion circuits.

2.-  Why did Nathren mention many times in his Forum that 100 volts and 10 amps was required to get an engine to start and run on water to hydrogen fuel gas. Did he, as ignorant, mean that he was talking about the 110v Inverter box? He also should have known that all the earlier engines were running on 6-7 amps per cylinder only ,as per the technicians. (garage oscilloscope and hand meters)  Salt water Electrolyte at plug tips as about 10 ohms resistance.

3.-Why wasn't  EGR  applied on lawn mower engine for the 2 demonstrations of summer 2008. EGR with recirculated Nitrogen from exhaust smooths out the earlier engines tested idling RPMS. Adjustable valves were added for control on the cars.

4.- If the increased high voltage from the Capacitor70 circuit provided that proper Plasma Path to allow heavy amps transfer through spark plug, then what was the Bare 5 turns copper #12 gauge coil be used for in that S1R triple coils assembly? Was that needed too? (crossover leakage inductance voltage, I tested, (90-200v)  After being miffed ,I then decided that what might have happened, is this,--- After the 2008 demonstrations were over, Nathren clipped off the ground wire that was hooked to the extension cord. That left a stub wire in the black electrical tape with frayed wires you can see in the graph paper photograph. Blow it up to see. He then unwound the proper parallel 7 turns from the secondary side and rewound them directly over the bare copper wire as a 90 degree wind. Now there is no transformer effect as no steel core underneath 7 turns. Do you agree? Nathren was attempting  to hide the pertinent data from the public. The final photo as on the graph paper is the converted one as shown to the public. What do you think?

5.- Why didn't Nathren run the mower engine on just battery power continuously, with the addition of alternator voltage. There are 2 halves of alternator with (2) AC outputs. Battery was used for starter motor and initial circuit start up circuit, so as engine was idling at lower RPM. Battery was completely removed for some reason. (Besides the high volts being on the battery as danger, no safety)  The alternator is just wires with rectifier pulses. The extra wire on the starter terminal, going around back of engine, also ran the main circuit when the red positive battery cable clip touched it. Maybe the technicians wanted mower engine to also be self running, just like the V8 on engine stand in their shop running 24 hours-7days, with large generator attached, and water line. - Free electricity for shop.

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Many questions open.
The most important one why he didnt do more with that finding....is it?
If yu have such a nice finding, you do more with it, is it?

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The only way to increase the high volts of lawnmower Magnetron ignition coil, is to bolt on another piece of laminations with a wire coil. The output of 1st secondary will be added to the next coil as an extension. The same magnetic flux is there, same time. There are differences in ignitions of the past . Some have higher secondary Henry inductance and ohms resistance, meaning there would be slightly higher output ignition volts. It is way less costly to experiment with small engines , but they need 24kv minimum for plasma path for amperage to pass, and must be in milliseconds time, not microseconds as in C D I.
A much more involved method is a second, opposite pole magnet put on flywheel next to other one with an opposite balancing lead weight. The dual magnetos would make AC into primary of the "old" style plain transformer type ignition . The secondary side AC generated could then use the diode and capacitor voltage doubler. The STENS brand aftermarket trigger modules work with either polarity ignitions. 2 blocking diodes would also be needed.
A man on You tube video tests his Biggs Magnetrons coils on bench with AC activated coils on old shaver laminations mounted next to the ignition laminations. The transposing magnetic flux runs the main ignition coil for spark. (trigger not tested)
 

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There are options when selecting a replacement ignition coil (Magnetron) for the mower engine. I was interested in changing over to positive high voltage rather than normal negative high voltage. There are a couple reasons. When tinkering with small engine for alternate uses/ fuels, There are high voltage shocks received when connecting parts such as resistor, capacitor, L coil, to engine ground. The spark plug refuses to fire, and bypasses to go up another line such as parts. During that time we get shocks from the engine. Also, when using the original old style Magneto as just a plain transformer before 1982, you can put it upside down on engine bracket and get positive high volts, but at away reduced level. You don't get up to 15kv anymore. The Autotransformers normally have the primary coil hooked directly with secondary side. The full secondary is normally primary + secondary in a negative "mode" Less wire is used in the positive mode.

Now then, there actually is a better way to get positive type high voltage at FULL VALUE VOLTS! If your Briggs engine is a one cylinder type, you can purchase a modern replacement Magnetron with DOUBLE CABLES. The secondary side is not connected with primary. When used on the twin cylinder engines, each spark plug gets different type power. Negative on one side and positive on other cylinder. Also, if you get the most modern type dual cables Magnetron, it will have the better type built in UNIVERSAL type trigger , rather than the Briggs brand trigger. Engine will fire at a lower RPM of flywheel , just like in the "olden days". Just hook the negative cable to ground and the positive cable to spark plug. Compare the photos of armature Magnetrons on Ebay to see the difference.

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Another few  methods to note regarding increasing existing level of lawn mower high voltage output. Add another complete Magnetron to the left coil mount , with longer screw, so as the iron laminations are bolted to the laminations underneath, for same timing. The flywheel outer magnet will induce magnetism in both cores same time. The first regular output cable hooks to secondary wire of the other, - (not the one to ground) The 2nd cable then becomes the final increased voltage output. The second secondary is an added on secondary winding so as both together becomes a longer wire. Make sure the 2nd unit is facing the right way- there is notation embedded in the epoxy as direction. The pre 1982 Magneto has exposed 4 wires as primary and secondary. -- No embedded solid state trigger. Most ignition coils are called autotransformers with 3 terminals only. (primary hooked internal to secondary) Used armatures- Magnetos and Magnetrons on Ebay for sale.

The other method is to add 12v battery to the "tab" terminal , as part of primary side. The Briggs trigger built in will then short 12v instead of 5-8volts, and release higher than -130 volts to run the secondary side. The Tab terminal is normally on the underneath side of ignition coil as a shut down terminal for the lawn mower. By raising up the primary volts, the Back EMF generated by the shorting, will develop a higher secondary volts to run spark plug. Use diode in series with capacitor with 2nd capacitor hooked to ground. The charged cap will discharge it's voltage into the primary side as the overriding higher volts, than what the magnet induced.

Third method to get higher ignition volts is to add on another complete Magnetron to other side of flywheel activated by the same flywheel magnet. Output energy stored in blue 30KV capacitor that would be put in series with the regular output cable. (2 batteries in series has voltages added together) Extra spark gap needed so as no premature firing of plug. There would be 2 values of gap distances, since cap not wanted to fire until regular spark occurs. The total spark volts is divided up between the 2 spark gaps. 66% of rotating flywheel magnet is unused, useful energy..