Your Design

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Been working all week, But I'm off for the weekend 

Spike

oil companies look out!   

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Thanks lapperl. I agree. So I tightened everything up and going with Sched 40 Clear PVC. It's rated 110 PSI ... more than enough for me.

Spike and CarbedNotch... I appreciate your concern with wall thickness and gap. Do you guys have better luck pushing high amps to generate HHO in your cells?

What I'm attempting is to follow what SM used for his wall thicknesses. I want to get the tubes to "ring" more easily so that's why the thinner material. The gap is what I believe that SM used to help get the + and - into more of a capacitor state useing the natural resistance in the water. I want to see how much charge i can get the tubes to maintain between pulse/partial disharge states so the constant magnitism in the 304L material will continually keep the water polarized. 304 has a little iron in it and is slightly ferromagnetic. I'm planning around a 14" tube length right now and still ironing out the details in the elevation design.

Thanks all for your feedback.

Flag 

[nogarats]

Flaghole, the cell your about to build  is pretty close to the one I built
execpt my mesure were slightly higher.

My wall thickness is 1/8 and 36" long  with 8" dia.
Tubes are 1.5" and 1.25" at .064 thickness 27" long.
I used plumber gasket for spacers.

My problem is when connected in // the cell draws around 100 amps no pwm.  straight DC  --  I also get a lot of sluge
when connected in series, .8 amp but no production

Here is the

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thin wall tubes: they dont stay true and get dents in them easy.
One of my cells has a .035" wall and it took special care when machning and handling.
The output of the cell, in my opinion, is mostly affected by the gap and not the wall thickness ...

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I have 2 small tubes I am expermenting with right now.

One is 7/16" dia x 5-19/32" length x .028 wall.
The other is 5/16" dia x 8-11/16" length x .028 wall.

They both weigh 27.5 grams.

Interestingly, when you hit them like tuning forks, the larger dia. tube is higher pitched.

I am looking at using a vibration analyser to find the critical resonant frequencies of each and shorten the smaller diameter tube to match resonance.

Flag 

[nogarats]

What I did was dia X3.1416 x length of the outer tube
same for the inner tube.

then subtract outer minus  inner and you should know the length to remove.  just remove a slice, because if I am not mistaking, only the full rounded portion will vibrate. not the slotted one.

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Thanks for your input nogarats. What I'm trying to accomplish and experiment with is to get both outer and inner tubes "in tune" with each other. I'm also going for a "loose" fit. The amplitude gain you get at certain harmonic frequencies when looseness is also involved really shakes things to pieces. That's why motor bearings tear up and pumps explode. I noticed that in Stan's designs the base of his outer tubes were held in place by spring steel and inner tubes used base clips and neither were hard fastened. With the magnetism/capacitor state you should keep the H2O polarized and the pulses and vibrations should not only crack H2O but also continuously shake the H & O formations off the tubes and make room for more H & O generation. As you "pull" the magnetized/capacitor states between the tubes using looseness, you will gain stronger vibrations in my opinion. That is what I am attempting and want to test. I'm interested in the piezoelectric effect whereas mechanical/electrical energy interchanges (vibrations), as well as, the polarization and electrolysis splitting the H2O.

Flag 

[pilot]

If you are formulating cells for resonance I would like to recommend not to forget the fibonacci number (Golden measure, golden rule, or whatever you wish to call it). 

1 X 1.618

If the width is 1' then the length is 1.618'  or some derivative of these two.

This number appears in nature and man-made things very often.