Author Topic: Kevin's 5 tube design  (Read 7793 times)

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  • Guest
Kevin's 5 tube design
« on: January 27, 2008, 03:20:36 am »
I just got a couple tools to do some testing on my cell.  The cell is 90% done.  I'm having issues with tapping through the 304 SS.  Broke my third bit today.  Gonna ask my machinist friend where to get better bits.  I should be able to finish the cell after work over the next couple days.  I have been filming the process and I'll upload the videos here once I'm done for the other DIYers on this site.  My 3 bubblers are done.  Just have to find my bronze wool.  I also purchased a mini torch tip.  This is all the easy stuff, but in order to get up to speed with you guys I still have to build my circuit boards, get an alternator and 1-2 HP electric motor.  The site has been hopping the last couple days Hydro.  Congrats man.


---Variac 130V 10 amps with a max load of 20A  model SC-10T

50 MHz Pulse Generator
model 801
s/n P6950874

5Hz to 50MHz frequency range
100/120-220/240,  48-66 Hz,  60 VA max

* operating modes include: Continuous, Triggered, Gated, Burst & Ext Width
* provides 20 V p-p output (maximum)
* variable rise and fall times (7 ns to 250 ms) and independent width and rate controls
* all outputs can be used simultaneously (four fixed and one variable)



  • Guest
Re: Kevin's 5 tube design
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2008, 03:22:48 am »

"On drilling 304:

I get by with the cheap titaninum-nitride coated bits from Harbour Freight, and use a drill press at 330 rpm and plenty of heavy grade cutting oil.  Take the time needed to make the cut, start by grinding a flat so ye ain't rollin' offa the curve.

Start small, 1/8" then step out as needed.

Plan on 5 cuts per bit then throw 'em away.

This business ain't fer folks skeerd of spendin' the turtlebucks.


Thanks turtle,

I have yet to break a drill bit. I have broken 4 tapping (used to create threads inside the drilled hole) bits though. I was able to salvage a couple of them by grinding them down. I used Senco pnuematic gun oil since LOWES didn't stock any drill bit oil. I ran the drill press I have at 550 rpm's which is the slowest it will go and it worked fine. When tapping you have to use the hand tool specifically made for the tapping bits. I also tried a variable speed cordless dewalt drill with a clutch, but the hand threading worked the best.

So I finished my cell finally a couple days ago filming the process as I went. The final dementions are 4.5"x16" with the tubes being 5 sets @ 12" tall. 321 SS outside 304 inside. I'm waiting for a couple components before I start doing tests on my cell.


I would like to contribute to this group and focus my efforts on problems that will further the research going on here, but I still have to build my circuits etc etc etc. So, until I get totally up to speed with you and others here I will be trying to determine the BTU value of the hydroxy gas compared to normal hydrogen oxygen mix.


Welcome to the forum! You have some excellent ideas and I look forward to seeing what this group can do with the additional knowledge.

I'll be posting some videos soon.



  • Guest
Drilling and tapping the pipes
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2008, 05:23:51 am »
I will be uploading some videos for the DIY'ers on this site so people can see how I made my 5 tube cell.

#1 Drilling and tapping the pipes:



  • Guest
Connecting the Wires:
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2008, 06:15:10 am »
#2 Connecting the Wires:

Does anyone know a good place to get SS wire?  I'll be going to a marine supply store soon and hopfully they will have it.

« Last Edit: January 27, 2008, 06:24:42 am by Kevin »


  • Guest
Re: Kevin's 5 tube design
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2008, 05:06:43 am »
Good approach, Kevin.  I'd use washers betwixt the bolt haid and wire to more evenly smash yer wire and prevent the twisting of the haid separating strands



  • Guest
Re: Kevin's 5 tube design
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2008, 20:53:52 pm »
Hi Kevin,

If you are stuck you can get some small gauge Stainless wire at Home Depot in their hardware section.  They have it so that people can fix exterior fences without the wire corroding in the rain.   I found the gauge, or the steel quality was somewhat low, so I used two pieces twisted together.   It gets hot when you run 3 Amps through it.  dunno the gauge, 20 or 22??    Ravi once mentioned he used copper wire with a HV automotive sealant (you need to confirm)

On a side note, I found that twisted wire connections underwater with this wire could arc over time.   This is bad, but also very cool. The series bifillar coils would cause large voltage spikes across this bad underwater connection and caused underwater arcing.  (with visible light).   HV pulses within the cell appeared to make more gas.  On the scope voltage pulses across the cell went off scale.  I got cautious and rewired my cell.   
The effect of this was a bit like Hyrdrocars'  mechanical pulsing circuit (pre-new-years post) of a DC supply.    I figure it would be hard to recreate this.   
Setup: I drove this with a couple of bench function gen's into a 60 watt audio power amplifier, diode, bifilar to 6x5&1/2" crap welded pipes. 1.8mm gap.



  • Guest
Re: Kevin's 5 tube design
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2008, 03:35:32 am »

Very well engineered cell.  I look forward to seeing more.

Drill Bit Suggestion:
Use cobalt drill bits and you won't break any more.  They are made for hard stuff like stainless steel and work very well.  They go through stainless like butter.  Harbor Freight carries a set of them for about $50 or you can buy the individual ones at Lowes or Ace.  You can drill about 60 holes before they get dull.  Put pressure on the bit while drilling and drill at a slower rpm.  Also keep your bit cool and it will last a lot longer.  I've got over 100 holes with some of my bits.  I quency mine in cold water while I am using them to keep them from getting to hot. 

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Re: Kevin's 5 tube design
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2008, 19:03:47 pm »