Adys, your not going to like this answer.
A piece of PVC 1 1/2" white water pipe was just a 1/16" under 2" diameter 18" long.
No slots or nothing. Really is not much work hand winding.
Cut 4 strands of wire, 37' each. Mine are only 5 turns per coil.
Leads facing away from you, first coil in lead to right other side of coil to left.
Second coil starts in the leads slot and then all coils go to right.
This makes the start leads just right of the end of coil loop.
Go all the way around, then the last lead wire out of coil will now just bend back around left on the outside of the coil and get tied.
When finished recheck all wire alignments and nomex paper. Make sure that no wire is out of paper against any metal.
When completely wound tamp down the wire with a smooth rubber mallet over a piece of plastic used as a surface.
Don't beat it to death but you can tamp reasonably strong while shaping.
Shape the coils. Flatten the loops.
The wire will fit into the housing of the alternator.
However it could have just been a little smaller coil.
This stator now needs ribbon tie and there is a method for that I use.
Coil bifilar start go around and at end attach to other set of bifilar at start. (Dual bifilar).
This point is my center tap.
My belief on VIC when done, is another item to be attacked.
This alternator is only one part of the coil system.
The alternator voltage changes with RPM and the stator is used for the primary of other coils (more vics!).
This may be hard to perceive but I have some other ideas for the so called resonant coils of Meyers.
