Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly

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A microwave oven 2,4GHz has a wavelength of 12.2 cm, water maser fundamental resonance is around 22GHz, and this is in 1/4 wave length 3,4mm... There are however many modes coming up to 96GHz witch would have a 1/2 wave around 1,5mm stans gap aproximatelly.


The lc is related i think to the spacial displacement of the ions, electrons... But i'm not sure on that... Stan stated so many things... seems more to be in accordance with the laser pulse repetition rate, commonly between 5khz and 10khz...


The time for transition of exited state to spontaneous emission is around 10^-8 seconds, so at least 100MHz frequency.. Lasers to get coherence needs to have more molecules in exited state, and is a matter of probability, so one never goes for the first transition to assure you get more atoms exited... To have stimulated emission you want all the atoms to emit in sync...


As i said water will emit laser but as its photons has low frequency of vibration, in the microwave infra-red range, its called maser. I think historically it came before the laser. Actually a laser is called an optical maser. Water Masers were observed in the universe...
 
Food for thought

I believe you are on the right track concerning the laser.

Hope so mina, if you have or anyone have any ideas please share in the atomic energy thread... lets give this thread some peace, its getting quite long...

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Don is that the ''fake'' alternator that came from the repair shop instead of the original one?thanks!

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Anybody wants to restart this thread?I think it is too bad to let it that way,Donald ?outlaw?I setup my jig with one standard alt and an ac motor...Now the fun part starts in rewinding...Thanks!

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I have an alternator. Does anyone know where I could buy an unwound stator for it?

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Today i tried dave lawton alternator schematic,which is copied after Stan's,and i got double the voltage output.I also pulsed the rotor but the output was just 3v at all freq.,i dont think is a good ideea...because it reduces the rotor field very much...

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Where did Don go?
This thread is in his project section.
It's been a long time since I posted and seems like a lot of info and work was done.

Anyways some time ago I purchased a new Ford maybe 200 amp stator and bearings from ebay , and before that a used 200 amp Ford alternator. It appears the same as Don's. I think this version is from the 1980's.
Yesterday I finally said its time to wind this although I do not think my choice of wire was the best but it was in the cupboard and available.
I had #16 wire and trifillar wound each phase, today I tied the windings at work.
Its now setup waiting to dip and bake, there are some motors at work that are almost ready to dip and bake and this stator will be done with them.
Drying or setting the dip takes about 5 hours at near 275 degree's.
After reading the thread this was not mentioned.
If the windings are not treated, the magnetic action of the rotor does pull the windings and they wobble or vibrate.
When the stator is dipped and baked minimum twice the wire becomes very permanent in its position and will not really wobble or vibrate and the stator will and can last a long time.
The cell I will test has 21 tubes of 11" long approximately 1" diameter inner. The array is 7 sets of 3 tubes and can be connected in pairs or triplets.
I have available at work a 240 volt 50 amp variac and this will run my 2HP 240 volt motor but now I can use a larger motor pulley and vary the speed which I wanted to do for a few years.
Anyhoo pretty soon I'll make this test finally.

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 Good work komtek.Glad to hear someone is still working on the r-vic....I am playing with a stock alt.hooked like the demo one but it's low voltage,because its half rectified and uses just the top cycle.I also put 12v 120hz and 12v strait dc into the rotor and with ripled dc was drawing 1.5A,strait dc was 1.8A,but the voltage was also higher with 1.8A.The motor i use is geting hot quickly...dont know why...its a 220v,450w,1500rpm...
Cheers!

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This is my 3rd or 4th configuration.
Your motor is too small that's why it gets hot.
For testing purposes driving the alternator seems best done with 1.5 to 2 hp or more depends on the load.
Leaves room to adjust the rotor.
1 hp = 746 watts. Your motor just over 1/2hp will work but with problems, as you draw a large load on the alternator.
I had used 1/3rd HP in the beginning and did not like it at all, changed that quickly.

This time I hope the internal chokes do something a little different for me.