Tube_Set_1

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lol, Bastard leg haha,,, i'll add that to my memory list! lmao

You wind them Bastards!

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I have experimented with "caps" on the top of the tubes. Its works nice when you have one large hole. The bubbles can build up and clog if the holes are too small, they will not pass.

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Those nozzles got holes .100 size, seem to work but you gave me some doubts.
Could enlarge the hole or remove the magnets. Will run more tests for a little while before I make a decision.
 
Tests with tap water.
Without the nozzles the bubbles are tiny fuzz tons of them and can hardly break the surface.
With nozzles the bubbles cluster to make larger bubbles and can break the surface easily.
Don't think those magnets are working like I had thought, but had to try anyway.
 
I'm thinking the large bubbles and nozzles would not matter.
If you are pulling them from the water with a little vacuum, then small fuzz bubbles most likely are probably just fine.
 
There is a 3/8" tube leaving the cell maybe I should make this smaller to 1/4"?
Either way I'm not that happy with the production pressure, it seems so miniscule a pressure something is not right!
Appears that there has to be a vacuum on this system to get all that fuzz bubble out, then there may be much more gas than I measure.
 
This is very frustrating!
 

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CarbedNotch thanks for the input on the caps and hole.
I'll redo a couple caps and retry larger holes 1/2"-3/4" at least I guess.
 
This is starting to get exciting, the more I play with it.
 
Still a long way to go, but seems to be getting better and better production pushed out.
I'll try a small motor soon and see if it can vacuum some of that froth bath out too!
 
Measured some voltage at my rods going through the froth bath.
Put on a 3.2v light no glow but dropped the voltage.
Put on a small computer LED light and I get a tiny pulsing light (barely but visible).
 
I'm thinking this is a good thing, there are electrons in the water bath and they must be liberated for me to pick them up in the LED.
Appears that the cell is doing what its supposed to, liberating some electrons from the molecules.
Time for a better EEC screen.
 
Havn't worked on choke and capacitance yet for circuit matching, just using the "15minute to wind chokes" so far.
 
 

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A minimal resistive wire was installed on the CT connections coil.
Resistance near 2 ohm (I wrapped SS picture hanging wire put in shrink wrap).
This restricted the amp flow to 20% or less of the full current draw of this system.
Also restricted my production, but still am able to produce minimal high voltage spikes.
 
This keeps telling me to produce a high voltage because I can see electrons being free'd and removed by the LED with the high voltage peaks but when I remove these peaks there are no electrons to remove.
 
Found a new electric motor for the test stand and will pick it up and rebuild new test stand for large alternators with a oilless rotary vane compressor/vacuum belt driven head.
I need that vacuum for small sized motors I am currently working with.
I ran the 1.5hp Honda motor for 1/2 minute after the gas emptied from the bowl but the rubber diaphram I made was hard to contol the feed oxygen/gas and the little motor did not even noticably pull a vacuum on my cell.
The motor when it ran went up in RPM and sounded great like it just loves the hydroxy gas.
 
Really don't know if the spikes have anything to do with freeing an electron.
What I do know is the LED only lights if a spike is present.
It also removes the stray voltage build-up in the water.       

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Several tests were done in the last 2 weeks.
Can't go through them all and besides that there is no over-glorified production figured out yet.
 
Thought I would post pictures of bubble start_up from my si-10 alternator that I rewound 35 turns per loop 70 turns per well.
Its sort of a Kevin West way except that I use center tapped windings.
 
I have not run the filter system for a while because I have not put together a seperate cell connection for it and I'm tired of undoing and redoing the existing connection and water drips out of tubing when I change over.
So please excuse me if this cell is pretty dirty with scum.
 
These pictures depict a single set start, double set start, then triple that you can't really see the third because its sort of behind the middle.
You will notice the production goes down fom the start up of adding another consectutive set of tubes.
Amp meter on center tap measures approximately 12amp each test.
Rotor gets approximately 10v pulsed each test.
 
Production of single tube_set is equal to production of tripe tube_set, pretty darn near.
Also wanted to say I cannot get any decent voltage spikes on this stator wind. It cannot make my little LED light at all.
Nada no decent spike activity.
 
It appears that this SI_10 rewound alternator likes to run one of my tube_sets with pretty near fully covered bubbles no breaks at the tube openings.
 

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Did you make a jig for rewinding your alternator, or how are you doing that? I'm currently looking for ideas on building a jig.

Also nice cell, looks extremely sharp and clean!

How did you do your EEC? Is that working with the alternator? I would have thought that's only something to try with a pulsed cell so you can pulse the EEC opposite the VIC.

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I hand wound the coils on a piece of PVC.
Cut a good slit down the PVC find some end caps the kind that are inner type caps.
There are really not many turns on a standard alternator wind.
Wind wire on PVC use little baggy ties to tie the loops remove caps and wire just slides off.

You will need the wire keepers and maybe well liners sometimes so be prepared.
Kevin West site shows a jig he made in his videos.

Make a loop see if it fits the alternator. Can't remember but I think 1 1/4"PVC for the small alternator stator and maybe 1 1/2" for the large alternator.
I'm not sure so you will have to check, this just gives you an idea.

When done paint couple-several coats with poly-urethane and q-tips or something similar, it firms up the loops and stops any problems from vibrations.

I noticed the water got charged and had voltage in it. Just for fun I attached a LED and it lit as the system pulsed.
The LED lit more when I tuned the PWM to give me a spiking voltage.
Instead of LED it may be wise to use a tungsten filament. I burned out my first LED, it was just a test anyway.
I would suggest a SS screen material made of a decent guage steel, attach a long screw or bolt.