Author Topic: Buck's Alternator  (Read 13161 times)

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2008, 02:40:40 am »
ooh no im a camaro dude  :o


Mr Browngass

Hahaha well lets forget our Chevy and Ford tastes just for this little project. Maybe If we make enough HHO we could power a Camaro or Mustang one day!

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2008, 11:22:51 am »
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt3phase002.jpg)
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/carbednotch/alt3phase003.jpg)

This alternator is from a '78 Ford F-150
Looking inside its really confusing. I cannot distinguish these wires. Am I using the correct style alternator?
Thanks.


HI,

You have an alternator and it is good enough.
As you see, you have 3 wires going up from the stator.
That is what you need.

Now, you can do many things.
I have removed all other components  from the alternator.
The components that I removed are the diodebridges and the voltage regulator.

I took some 3 wires and connected them to the 3 wires off the stator and the 3 wires are going ouside the alternator.
Then its best to re-use the diodebridges. I have mounted them outside the alternator.

The other 2 wires or contacts from the sliprings are for the rotor.
So, you must be able to put from the outside voltage on the rotor.


hopes this helps you out.
If not, just ask.

br
Steve

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2008, 16:49:22 pm »
yes this does help very much.
What's the slipring?

Also why wont the housing on mine come apart? Is it really nesasary to take it completely apart?
It is kinda dirty because its out of my mudd truck.

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2008, 21:04:20 pm »
It's always best for fully clean the whole mess up and then put fresh thin coating of grease on the shaft/bearing surfaces. Not a lot but enough to protect them. Use a good wheel bearing grease in a light coating. You want something that will stay put and use just a little in case it doesn't. The changes Steve mentions is good advice. If your diodes were to fry, they'd be outside of the unit and easily replaceable.

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2008, 22:47:31 pm »
yes this does help very much.
What's the slipring?

Also why wont the housing on mine come apart? Is it really nesasary to take it completely apart?
It is kinda dirty because its out of my mudd truck.

Hi,

Sliprings are the things that look like bearings. The brushes are against them too feed the rotor with current/voltage
On your picture you can see them.

What do you mean with not being able to take the housing apart? Its already open on the pics..?
If it is closed, just use 2 screwdrivers, after you removed the outside nuts and bolts....
Put them between the 2 halfs and brake it open, carefully.

br
Steve

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2008, 23:05:38 pm »
steve do you have an external voltage regulator or you just put full power to your brushes

Hi,

No, i do not use an external voltage regulator. I did some tests and I do not like it much.
What I do use depends on what kind of test I wanna do.
I have many options for feeding the rotor with voltage/current.
The way Hydro and I teach here and the way you get resonance, when tuned well, is the pulsed self-sustaining trick.

Rotor powering options:
If you take the output of the 2 diodebridges, meaning the minus and the plus which you can connect to yr wfc, you can split these wires. one set goes to the wfc and one goes to the rotor.
Very simple.
The most important thing, many forget, is that you have to energise the wfc for 3 seconds with a 12V battery.
Then you remove the battery and the alternator is feeding himself and the wfc.
Step1: turn on the drivermotor to turn the alternator
Step2: energise the wfc
Step3: have a good look and have fun with your bubbles.
Remember that this way of providing power to the rotor doesnt produce resonance. But is does provid lots of current and voltage and lots of bubbles. This is simple strait electrolysis with good results.
Step 4: is to use the schematic as provided here in this topic. Thats what gives the best results sofar.

Of course you can put a battery charger on the rotor, or a battery. 6 volts or 12 volts, or use a rectified trafo output.
It really doesnt matter for the rotor.

But remember: The best results are with a pulsed self-sustaining alternator setup, like the schematic here in the topic.



br
Steve

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2008, 02:22:33 am »
carbnotch when you try to put it back together their is a hole at the end of the brush holder you push in the brushes and slide a thin drill bit or tooth pick in their to hold the brushes in .then when its together you pull it out from the hole on the out side of alternator

I'll remember that    ;D

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Re: Buck's Alternator
« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2008, 17:17:24 pm »
Yes! I finally got it taken apart...  I had to use the impact wrench to take off the pulley.
After I had it apart I washed the parts in carb cleaner and simple green. They are drying out right now. 
Still have to get  one of the diode bridges out of the back half of the case. I cant get it out just yet because of these plastic pieces that have to be ground off to allow you to put a socket on the nut. I'll post pics soon. I'm very excited and its really hard work doing all this while hopping on one leg.    ::)