Author Topic: Understanding And Creating  (Read 20536 times)

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Re: Understanding And Creating
« Reply #48 on: February 02, 2008, 21:08:36 pm »
Can you help me out please
thanks

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Re: Understanding And Creating
« Reply #49 on: February 02, 2008, 21:55:45 pm »
Hi Hydrogenmask,

Let me rewrite what you wrote....
You put 5 VDC on the rotor and get 5V rectified on the stator side?
Hmmm..NOT GOOD
Do you still have the original controlling electronics in the alternator?
You must only keep the diodes inside or outside your alternator! Everything else must leave.

If you put 12VDC on the rotor (strait DC) and run the alternator...What kind of voltage do you get on the 3 wires?
Or on the output of the diodes?

The capacitor on the rotor can be anything above 1000uF. I have 4700uF.

Br
Steve

hydro

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Re: Understanding And Creating
« Reply #50 on: February 03, 2008, 00:03:15 am »
whats your pulley setup? feel free to start a thread and add pictures, i would be honored to see them!

the cap i used was 200 volts 450 Uf, 450 is not crucial it just helps to regulate! if you do not use a cap, "you should find it very hard to regulate", if its not touchy to the potentometer without the cap then something is wrong.

the capacitor i used was 0.01 on the frequency, 304k stamped on the side.

it does matter how you have the rotor connected to the field coil. also it is very important that you have your diodes all installed properly, also check for faulty diodes.

also the wfc plays a roll to! what is your plate setup? how many amps does your cell usually pull from a car battery?


the alternator i started out with, its rotor could pull 6 amps max, my new alternators rotor can only pull 3 amps max. you should be running somewhere around 1 amp, what i mean is put you an amp meter between the stator and the rotor, see how much power you are using there, you shouldn't be using 2 amps, my setup works the best at just 1.6 amps. the output amps going into your cell should be very high, my alternator setup forced 15 amps into my cell at around 20 volts. you can have your rpms to high, if its to high the alternator sounds like its about to blow up or something.

all fets are not good, first check that your fet is capable of allowing the flow of atleast 2 good amps into the rotor from the stator by using amp meter like i said before.

when you get harmonics, you will notice no load at the start, you will then slowly turn your pot, you will notice a slight load on the driver motor, just a tad bit more, and thats where i get the harmonics. i had just learned that not every atom has one resonate frequency, this is why the harmonics work so well.

im sure you have more questions, i will be here throughout the night, i want leaving you hanging long. i would like to add that the FQA30N40 Fet is the best fet you can possibly find, if you find one better let me know! i cant use my alternator because i have no fets. anyone know of any? i don't want any half inch small ones, this fet was atleast 3/4th wide. i miss it much!

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Re: Understanding And Creating
« Reply #51 on: February 03, 2008, 16:35:29 pm »
Ok guys lets find out what is wrong step by step. It is easier for us to find out the bug.
I`m going to start a new thread so go there. (alternator setup)

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Re: Understanding And Creating
« Reply #52 on: February 14, 2008, 06:59:46 am »
Hydrocars,
There is little information on the wye alternator on google.
Where did you get your info on the insides of one and how to identify it?
Thanks again.