Author Topic: Bubz  (Read 17490 times)

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #40 on: November 30, 2009, 02:48:14 am »
If your coils get hot... hmm, maybe that's why Stan's chokes above use 0.0425 inch wire, that's pretty thick wire... about 17 gage. What gage are your chokes? They could be too thin?

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #41 on: November 30, 2009, 02:52:52 am »
20 gauge silver coated copper wire insulated with teflon.  First coil former was a piece of T304 SS pipe the others are ferrite toroids.  Windings are various 25, 50 and 100 bifilar.

Andy
« Last Edit: November 30, 2009, 04:10:56 am by handyandy »

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #42 on: November 30, 2009, 02:55:30 am »
according to http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

17 gage can take 2.9 amps for power transmission
20 gage can take 1.5

so maybe for your setup a thicker wire would handle the load better? I am not considering turns and such so i dono...

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #43 on: November 30, 2009, 03:17:19 am »
I agree with Donald, even in the pics above, I noticed right away the rather large wire diameter, which looks close to the same size of my 12V stator wire. The wire I used previously to connect the alternator to the cell was getting hot. I went to 12 gauge and they don't eve get warm now. I measured the cell consuming 25A. You could keep trying the next size bigger till the heat is gone if you have the time,money and patience.

Oh, and I forgot to mention that my 24V stator had half the wire size of the 12V and was getting hot or real warm. The 12V barely gets warm.


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Re: Bubz
« Reply #44 on: November 30, 2009, 03:31:41 am »
Next size up would be 16 gauge wire which is what I'm using before and after the coils.  First I'll try changing the wiring before and after the coils and see what effect it has with 20 gauge wire from the pwm and to the wfc I'm using.  Also using a n4007 diode it gets blistery hot too.  They go poof every once in a while.  Thanks I'll  post here any results I get if you don't mind.  I am attempting to restrict amps.

Andy

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #45 on: November 30, 2009, 04:07:06 am »
Sure! I don't mind. Post anything you got! Please post pictures and or schematics if you can. I'm very interested in your upcoming results.

Donaldwfc, may I ask you how you made your end caps for your cell? I would very much like a pair of those some day. How tight is the fit when inserting them into the tube? I would even pay you or someone else to do it for me, if I have to. I don't have a lathe... yet. Which reminds me...

Dynodon, Is that a lathe I see in some pictures? Is it blue? Next to the steam resonator thing? And also I saw a pic of the resonant cell on it possibly? I am so curious! What kind of tools did he use?

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #46 on: November 30, 2009, 04:24:17 am »
ends caps...

made from a thick sheet of acrylic, lots of fun!

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/bigbuba/Picture3-4.png)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/bigbuba/Picture2-1.png)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/bigbuba/Picture1-3.png)

first trace a circle around the acrylic tube,
cut them out on the band saw roughly
then find the center
drill a hole
mount in lathe like shown
make them round
then it gets fancy with o-rig edge
and all the holes that hold the tubes on the bottom
and the pipe threads that hold the pipes at the top

quite a fun job!

the fit is ... great, all the measurements down to less than a thousandths of an inch where they matter

All the holes are drilled on an Excello Ram Turret Milling Machine with a Digital Readout accurate to 0.0005" (half a thousandth)

Makes it great for laying out hole patterns and having them dead on.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2009, 04:45:15 am by Donaldwfc »

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Re: Bubz
« Reply #47 on: November 30, 2009, 04:42:40 am »
Very, very nice! Excellent workmanship! Thank you for sharing that!