Author Topic: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly  (Read 148406 times)

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #384 on: July 11, 2013, 13:07:14 pm »
thanks komtek,i think so too,but i'm not putting much of a load to it...anyway...
Can you/guys help in descifering this photo?Don said its a normal fullbridge rectifier for each phase...I made it negative so we can see the back and i traced some of the back conections....cheers!
« Last Edit: July 11, 2013, 13:27:06 pm by adys15 »

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #385 on: July 11, 2013, 15:22:01 pm »
Whats on the other side.
There should be a wire connection in between each diode for bridge.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #386 on: July 11, 2013, 17:58:13 pm »
yes i think there is,the first phase is between the 2top diodes,and also on the 2bottom diodes,the thick track must be + for the wfc...but how about the other 12 wires for the chokes???

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #387 on: July 11, 2013, 22:56:14 pm »
Glad to see some interest in this again.

I still have mine, but I need to put a diode in it to replace one that burnt out. It was a 1200V 30A diode, so I don't know how it failed, max I saw was ~350 V at ~1.5A, wound with 30 gauge wire. That is with a max of 12V on the variac rectified.

I might eventually wind another stator with 18 gauge wire like Stans original.

Also need to build the pulsing circuit to pulse the field windings, have all the parts waiting...

The big deal is getting the proper size cell for it. My cell is too small, so I did not continue testing it very much. So a few things left to do to get it tested properly.

As far as dipping the stator, yes this is a good idea, but only if the thing works... You could test it for many hours before the vibrations would wear through the insulation, but as soon as you figure that the winding configuration is useful, then you should dip it. I tied my wire up, but never dipped it because I didn't get to that point in the testing.

I have a 1/2 hp motor, and it runs fine as long as you don't turn up the variac too much, but this may change if you have a much larger cell or thicker stator wire.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #388 on: July 11, 2013, 23:06:25 pm »
Glad to see you again Donald,i am planing to rewire my alt too with thinner wire,,,You said you got 350vout of it,but what hapened when you hooked it up to the cell?the voltage droped and kiled the motor?cheers!

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #389 on: July 13, 2013, 00:55:52 am »
How about what not to do?
I was ready to put this together in the housing, forgot all my past experiences.
Do not make the loops to large, it won't fit.
Lucky I work for a motor shop.
I'll cut this one, and redo it in 18 wire as it should have been in the first place.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #390 on: July 13, 2013, 01:26:55 am »
Cool!That looks almost like Stan's,you are right about the coils,they are a bit large.I saw you got 18 leads out ,you are using bif chokes?how many turns do you have per loop?Cheers!

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #391 on: July 13, 2013, 17:11:38 pm »
adys15 on this particular alternator there is basically 4 loops per coil segment with #16 wire.
Now I'm changing to #18 wire and looking at a different Meyer print.

The Meyer diagram with the CT's and 0 connection to the cell.
Wondering if the 0 connection is to pull out of solution the free'd electrons from the process.
The fact that it (0 water) reconnects into that center-tap makes me wonder.
Also it appears the CT connect uses only 1 independent core, not 3.

For simplicity I'm guessing the center tapped secondary is just 2 full coil winds (edit add, bifilars) positive choke 1 full coil wind and negative choke 1 full coil wind.
If I choose to match impedance then either the bifilar is twice as long as the pos/neg coils or I choose a smaller wire size (#22) and bifilar it same length to maintain same resistance as coils.
May be missing something so will have to think about it for a while.
The impedance of the neg and pos choke together is the same as the secondary (wouldn't you think?).
The CT separate circuit on its own core, I'm wondering if maybe its winding should be equal to the impedance of the full secondary, or the size of one section of secondary?
This can be mounted on the outside of the alternator, also can be changed or rewound.

From past experiences playing with standard alternators and no modifications to windings, they produce a nice signal and can supply all the current needed by the load attached.
Whats nice is the rotor wind (magnet coil) can be adjusted and used as a current limit.
Interesting would be if the multi-coil wound phases are able to produce some current limit and allow voltage to be the dominant force.

Couple questions need answered.
It can appear as if the chokes are separate from the stator. Also CHOKE 56 and 62 state 11.6k ohm,s in memo 427. Questionable as to separate cores! Kind of appears as separate cores, also the 11.6k ohm easily can be a coil measured with inductive reactance at 5k frequency depending on wire length which can be composed of #18awg or so estimating 120 turns or so even on air core, it's not out of sight.

Amp Inhibiting Coil-Assembly (617) is made up of magnetic inductance Stainless Steel 430FIFR wire material wrapped around a closed-loop Induction Magnetic Core (619)    
which is a separate coil-unit (860) apart from VIC Coil Assembly (not stating the resistance in ohm's).    

 
« Last Edit: July 19, 2013, 21:21:18 pm by komtek »