Author Topic: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly  (Read 148428 times)

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #184 on: December 14, 2009, 02:57:13 am »
so its all really determined by the wire arangment on the stator or is there a different rotor involved having a different geometry configuration then a automobile version?? is there a different material used for the core?

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #185 on: December 14, 2009, 04:07:12 am »
when i was experimenting with alternators i tried alot of diffrent thing 

i found by changing the shape of the rotor poles from a hump to a hump with a   flatback you can change the out put wave from the alternator

apparently  when the rotor passes each cavity it energises it when it  dosent taper of the cavity shuts off instantly  it kind of a way of making a square wave from an alternator  with out a pulse generator

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #186 on: December 14, 2009, 06:27:17 am »
Interesting!

When you say 400 Hz, does that imply at standard rpm?

By running the drive motor faster, or changing pulley ratio we could get a higher frequency out of it, but does a higher frequency work better for gas production in situations excluding resonance?

I'd like to figure out what the inductance and capacitance of an alternator is, and see if you can do anything with that to make a more favorable output.

Great News, I just finished university for the semester, I have 2-3 weeks to work on my Quenching Circuit nozzles, and my RVIC.... and see were that takes me, I want to get a scope, and figure out as much as I can.

:D

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #187 on: December 22, 2009, 02:16:14 am »
Anybody know how much wire it takes to rewind an alternator?

I figure the weight of wire is the same no-matter what gage you use.

My rough math brings me to about 1300 feet for 93 turns/14 loops/3 phases of 30 gage wire, or about 1/2 pound, but I would like a second opinion before I go to the motor shop.

Eight 1200 volt 30 amp diodes have been ordered. 

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #188 on: December 23, 2009, 04:42:59 am »
have 5 pounds of 30 gage, will figure out how many turns i can fit in next, and build a jig, with over a quarter mile of wire, i'm not doing this by hand!

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #189 on: December 23, 2009, 06:48:51 am »
donald,   im curious what width you are planing to wind the stator... when i say width im speaking of  length of the wire linear with the grove and is in the groove.. im thinking 2 in or 2.5 in  a stator core is 1 inch in width.. 2 inch gives half inch over hang each side, while a 2.5 will give .75 in on each side over hang..  im thinking im gonna find a tru 2by 6 board and make a solid wood jig... im only gonna notch it to match up for a single phase... this means i will make a circle board matching the dia of the stator and notch matching groves every 30 degrees.. this gives me 12 grooves total matching the groove count and degrees on the stator..  this will give the capability to wind from the exterior then place it in a interior.. i am curious of your approach for the jig..

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #190 on: December 23, 2009, 08:09:39 am »
Kevin West has good reference material on the rewind jig.

I'll summarize:

You'll need 14 separate but series-connected coils, the # of winds determine the V.

One example is 62 turns of #26 ga mag wire for each coil, x 14 coils =868 turned getting fluxed at the same instant on a 42 pole stator.  This will put out 150 volts I think.

To spool these up, gitcha a length of 1 1/4" sch 40 pvc pipe, at least 12" long.  It really helps to have a wood or metal lathe, tho you'll probably wanna crank the turns by hand [by a helper].

Leave the end 2" alone on one end, then slice two cuts lengthwise, 180* opposed.

Now you have something you need to beef up to make it rigid again, but when you remove the "beefers" it'll collapse and you can slide the coils off easily.  Also, the slots will enable you to put a couple scrawny plastic wire-ties onto the coils to keep 'em from unravelling.

Now for the layout.  Along the pipe, slide a flat piece like a shortened popsicle stick through the  pipe, both slots. If it sticks out both sides 1/2" that's enuf.   Wrap it in place with electrical tape.  This is the "segmenter- beefer."  MAke 15 spaces this way, and now you can wrap the right # of turns in each space, leaving a tail at the beginning and a little extra between coils and a tail at the end.  Wire is cheap, comparatively.

[edit: he does make reference to winding the coils alternately CW and CCW as you go down the pipe, tho I'm not sure why.  Mebbe it has something to do with the way they get wire-tied together]

When its all wound up, carefully slice away the e-tape and pull sticks out after doing  the wire-tie thing.

Slide the whole mess offa the slit end and start over for a total of three.

I know this is clear as mud, but I cain't find that file just now

Turtle

« Last Edit: December 23, 2009, 08:34:38 am by keithturtle »

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #191 on: December 23, 2009, 14:11:47 pm »
keith, im not sure if kevin is taking the right approach,,,, i understand how he does it.. its not how a alternator is wound though...... what i think is thge right way at the moment you do laps around the core in a repedative figure S so to speak. and you are winding 3 wire on one phase.. kevin only winds one.