Ionizationx: a clean environment is a human right!

Projects by members => Projects by members => Komtek => Topic started by: komtek on July 29, 2009, 06:34:31 am

Title: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 06:34:31 am
My new tube_set almost completed and ready to test drive. Yeh! Its about time.
 
I started this set near 2 years ago and never made a housing for it just used to test in a bucket for the longest time.
Finally decided to build it because I got happy with an alternator as a power source and it looks like it may provide just enough gas to work or have fun with.
 
Still want to build one more addition inside the housing right above the tubes I think a set of underwater ionizers and a EEC, just now checking the parts I'll need, to make this happen.
 
The tube nozzles were sort of tough and I had made some variations in the tops. Besides that I didn't have a good jig to hold the angle I needed.
Made a special insert inside the nozzle, just to see what this will do. Hoping it may strengthen the gas by alignment of the electrons by using a neodymium magnet?
The acrylic liners over the tubes had to be press on, tight fit.
 
21 tubes in 7 sets of 3 starting with 1" - 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" near 1 foot long.
Trued the pipes on a lathe the best I could, its way better than when it came.
Although it has 2 different sized gaps, I think it will do a great job.
Didn't really have much choice in the stainless department and got what I could at the time.   
   
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 06:38:54 am
Here's a close up of the tube nozzles or tops.
 
Also I have put 2 o-rings on that magnet that set into the center tube perfectly.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 08:16:13 am
Great work , I'm jealous .

I still dont have one piece off ss besides these ss light switch fixtures plate things ...
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 09:40:10 am
Hi Komtek,

Looks great.
Small tip: use bigger gauge wire. I think these current ones will get hot very soon...

Steve
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 11:39:07 am
Thats one nice Cell. Great Job!
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 17:25:28 pm
Dankie I got the Stainless at $2.50 a pound in a scrap yard a couple years ago.
I don't think the scrap prices changed too much since then.
But I had to visit many scrap yards until I found the stainless.
The good scrap yard with stainless has it all sorted out in 20 foot long cubby sections but its 100 miles away.
 
Steve I chose the small type tip holes to test to see if the gas will cluster together and come out in larger bubbles, we'll soon see. Hopefully the magnetics will enhance the gas. And the wire is a 18awg lead going to each tube so its good for several amps per wire.
It is working on another tube-set right now and there is no heat build-up at all on the wire. Its changable if I run into problems.
 
And Haithar the plastic I got real lucky at ebay  all_acrylics had this size for $11.01 per 6' had to buy twice but they were good on the shipping only charged for one and a little more. Still the shipping had cost more than the parts. But it was the correct size I needed!
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 18:38:52 pm
Komtek,

Very Nice Work.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 19:28:25 pm
Thanks for the kind words Geoy, Warp, hopefully this tube_set will provide a modest production with the alternator.
 
I have 2 alternators set right now (GM si10 and Ford 1g), but really like the Ford alternator best.
The altenator I'm using is a old 1g small case. I have the large case Ford here and did order the 200 amp stator replacement because I wanted bifilar leads inside on the stator. (Want the 12 leads) and did not want to rewire the heavy gage wire in there.
The guy mailed me a 100 amp stator and when I confronted him last week he called his supplier and then called me back and said sorry about that, and the 200amp model should be on the way. Reminds me I should give him a check up call.
 
This will give me 3 alternators and 6 stators I have. One of the stators I already rewired to 70 wires in the well, thats loops of 35 of #23awg. That rewind does not work the same set up as the standard modified Ford I'm using.
Also have to modify rotor power requirements, so I have some work cut out for me.
When this gets done I'll start a new project thread on the alternator set I'm using.
 
Meanwhile I'm just starting to do a leak test on the new cell.
 
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 20:15:05 pm
I like the use of the liners. 

In case others haven't tried insulating the outside of the outer tubes,  this assures that only the water between the tubes is subjected to the electrical signal. 

When uninsulated bare tubes are in the water bath,  all the water in the tank area  is exposed to the positive charge applied to the outer tube(s).  I have found that the voltage potential  between the outer and inner tubes increases significantly when the outer tubes are insulated. 

Goey
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 29, 2009, 20:54:38 pm
Yes I agree the use of liners allows whatever signal or energy you put in to be focused on the tubes and not wasted or dispersed in the general water bath.
This should by theory produce better efficiency.
 
It makes sense.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 03:47:04 am
Are they Wye or Delta?
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 06:30:45 am
Warp, The alternators have each winding cut in the middle basically at the half-way point.
Then I attach that cut with half a butt splice connector, add another lead and solder them all together and wrap them.
 
Each lead is brought outside where I made a diode bank of 3 for each lead. Total 9 leads.
Each winding end has ultra fast diode facing tube cell and the cut lead has diode facing stator.
I used on my other set a choke for each tube on this test I used 1 choke per seven tubes. 3 chokes total.
 
Also this way I get to connect in all varietys as I test.
So today I connected as written above.
Pulse is like a diathermy machine 0-30 on current meter, constantly up down on the current.
 
Best production was not even a 1/4 liter a minute somewhere around 220ml a minute I would say thats pretty close to accurate.
Tap water made a huge amount of brown. So I tried distilled water and could barely conduct and made hardly anything.
So I added sea-salt and made a huge amount of real dark brown almost black. But I was able to make bubbles again.
Never got to measuring the output with sea salt may have been a slight better than tap water, not much.
There is some minerals in the sea salt doing this.
Strength of gas was not tested.
 
Either method created the awfull brown scum. I hate that crap. (Nitride or whatever).
Going to make a filter system because of the scum, thats the only way to keep it clean.
 
Tomorrow I'll try the delta connect.
 
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 07:31:00 am
You tapped the center coils, Its called, Wild leg, Hot Leg, Red Leg, High Leg, etc,,,,
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 10:59:21 am
Warp, The alternators have each winding cut in the middle basically at the half-way point.
Then I attach that cut with half a butt splice connector, add another lead and solder them all together and wrap them.
 
Each lead is brought outside where I made a diode bank of 3 for each lead. Total 9 leads.
Each winding end has ultra fast diode facing tube cell and the cut lead has diode facing stator.
I used on my other set a choke for each tube on this test I used 1 choke per seven tubes. 3 chokes total.
 
Also this way I get to connect in all varietys as I test.
So today I connected as written above.
Pulse is like a diathermy machine 0-30 on current meter, constantly up down on the current.
 
Best production was not even a 1/4 liter a minute somewhere around 220ml a minute I would say thats pretty close to accurate.
Tap water made a huge amount of brown. So I tried distilled water and could barely conduct and made hardly anything.
So I added sea-salt and made a huge amount of real dark brown almost black. But I was able to make bubbles again.
Never got to measuring the output with sea salt may have been a slight better than tap water, not much.
There is some minerals in the sea salt doing this.
Strength of gas was not tested.
 
Either method created the awfull brown scum. I hate that crap. (Nitride or whatever).
Going to make a filter system because of the scum, thats the only way to keep it clean.
 
Tomorrow I'll try the delta connect.


Salt create chorine, Komtek. Thats NOT healty.
You better try NAOH or KOH.

Best regards
Steve
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 17:35:42 pm
Not only is it not healthy, it will severely pit your tubes out on the "First run" Baking soda is right down the street. However, it can not do what Koah does, but it does conduct more, Lots has used it, not sure what gas that creates.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 17:38:25 pm
Steve I think Sea Salt contains only minerals not chlorinated. (OOps 55% chloride) thats plenty!
Table Salt on the other had contains 100% Sodium Chloride.
 
Warp thats right all those names and others like Bastard Leg we used to call it.
 
I'll try the NOAH when I have exhausted all my tests.
I think I'll just have to dump out that batch of water and start fresh. (Pitting tubes makes me worried).
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 30, 2009, 22:45:38 pm
lol, Bastard leg haha,,, i'll add that to my memory list! lmao

You wind them Bastards!
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 31, 2009, 01:55:36 am
I have experimented with "caps" on the top of the tubes. Its works nice when you have one large hole. The bubbles can build up and clog if the holes are too small, they will not pass.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on July 31, 2009, 19:40:36 pm
Those nozzles got holes .100 size, seem to work but you gave me some doubts.
Could enlarge the hole or remove the magnets. Will run more tests for a little while before I make a decision.
 
Tests with tap water.
Without the nozzles the bubbles are tiny fuzz tons of them and can hardly break the surface.
With nozzles the bubbles cluster to make larger bubbles and can break the surface easily.
Don't think those magnets are working like I had thought, but had to try anyway.
 
I'm thinking the large bubbles and nozzles would not matter.
If you are pulling them from the water with a little vacuum, then small fuzz bubbles most likely are probably just fine.
 
There is a 3/8" tube leaving the cell maybe I should make this smaller to 1/4"?
Either way I'm not that happy with the production pressure, it seems so miniscule a pressure something is not right!
Appears that there has to be a vacuum on this system to get all that fuzz bubble out, then there may be much more gas than I measure.
 
This is very frustrating!
 
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on August 02, 2009, 01:29:17 am
CarbedNotch thanks for the input on the caps and hole.
I'll redo a couple caps and retry larger holes 1/2"-3/4" at least I guess.
 
This is starting to get exciting, the more I play with it.
 
Still a long way to go, but seems to be getting better and better production pushed out.
I'll try a small motor soon and see if it can vacuum some of that froth bath out too!
 
Measured some voltage at my rods going through the froth bath.
Put on a 3.2v light no glow but dropped the voltage.
Put on a small computer LED light and I get a tiny pulsing light (barely but visible).
 
I'm thinking this is a good thing, there are electrons in the water bath and they must be liberated for me to pick them up in the LED.
Appears that the cell is doing what its supposed to, liberating some electrons from the molecules.
Time for a better EEC screen.
 
Havn't worked on choke and capacitance yet for circuit matching, just using the "15minute to wind chokes" so far.
 
 
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on August 03, 2009, 20:13:19 pm
A minimal resistive wire was installed on the CT connections coil.
Resistance near 2 ohm (I wrapped SS picture hanging wire put in shrink wrap).
This restricted the amp flow to 20% or less of the full current draw of this system.
Also restricted my production, but still am able to produce minimal high voltage spikes.
 
This keeps telling me to produce a high voltage because I can see electrons being free'd and removed by the LED with the high voltage peaks but when I remove these peaks there are no electrons to remove.
 
Found a new electric motor for the test stand and will pick it up and rebuild new test stand for large alternators with a oilless rotary vane compressor/vacuum belt driven head.
I need that vacuum for small sized motors I am currently working with.
I ran the 1.5hp Honda motor for 1/2 minute after the gas emptied from the bowl but the rubber diaphram I made was hard to contol the feed oxygen/gas and the little motor did not even noticably pull a vacuum on my cell.
The motor when it ran went up in RPM and sounded great like it just loves the hydroxy gas.
 
Really don't know if the spikes have anything to do with freeing an electron.
What I do know is the LED only lights if a spike is present.
It also removes the stray voltage build-up in the water.       
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on August 09, 2009, 01:20:30 am
Several tests were done in the last 2 weeks.
Can't go through them all and besides that there is no over-glorified production figured out yet.
 
Thought I would post pictures of bubble start_up from my si-10 alternator that I rewound 35 turns per loop 70 turns per well.
Its sort of a Kevin West way except that I use center tapped windings.
 
I have not run the filter system for a while because I have not put together a seperate cell connection for it and I'm tired of undoing and redoing the existing connection and water drips out of tubing when I change over.
So please excuse me if this cell is pretty dirty with scum.
 
These pictures depict a single set start, double set start, then triple that you can't really see the third because its sort of behind the middle.
You will notice the production goes down fom the start up of adding another consectutive set of tubes.
Amp meter on center tap measures approximately 12amp each test.
Rotor gets approximately 10v pulsed each test.
 
Production of single tube_set is equal to production of tripe tube_set, pretty darn near.
Also wanted to say I cannot get any decent voltage spikes on this stator wind. It cannot make my little LED light at all.
Nada no decent spike activity.
 
It appears that this SI_10 rewound alternator likes to run one of my tube_sets with pretty near fully covered bubbles no breaks at the tube openings.
 
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on September 29, 2009, 00:27:50 am
Did you make a jig for rewinding your alternator, or how are you doing that? I'm currently looking for ideas on building a jig.

Also nice cell, looks extremely sharp and clean!

How did you do your EEC? Is that working with the alternator? I would have thought that's only something to try with a pulsed cell so you can pulse the EEC opposite the VIC.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on September 29, 2009, 02:41:52 am
I hand wound the coils on a piece of PVC.
Cut a good slit down the PVC find some end caps the kind that are inner type caps.
There are really not many turns on a standard alternator wind.
Wind wire on PVC use little baggy ties to tie the loops remove caps and wire just slides off.

You will need the wire keepers and maybe well liners sometimes so be prepared.
Kevin West site shows a jig he made in his videos.

Make a loop see if it fits the alternator. Can't remember but I think 1 1/4"PVC for the small alternator stator and maybe 1 1/2" for the large alternator.
I'm not sure so you will have to check, this just gives you an idea.

When done paint couple-several coats with poly-urethane and q-tips or something similar, it firms up the loops and stops any problems from vibrations.

I noticed the water got charged and had voltage in it. Just for fun I attached a LED and it lit as the system pulsed.
The LED lit more when I tuned the PWM to give me a spiking voltage.
Instead of LED it may be wise to use a tungsten filament. I burned out my first LED, it was just a test anyway.
I would suggest a SS screen material made of a decent guage steel, attach a long screw or bolt.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on September 29, 2009, 18:51:20 pm
I've seen his jig and other videos on rewinding the alternator, I'm thinking of doing something similar.

When you are putting the new coils in the stator, did you come up with any simple ways to make sure you are always putting the coil in in the right orientation? This is something I figure I will have to play with to understand completely, but any tips you have on that would be nice.
Title: Re: Tube_Set_1
Post by: Login to see usernames on February 24, 2010, 20:03:49 pm
I figured to post another picture of my tubeset.
Finally after moving have been able to start playing again.
Nothing has become of this photon experiment yet.
Most of my problems are due to being a little uneducated on the electronics, even though I know a little I lack alot in this area.

Thinking that photon's will aid in the strength of gas produced by pulling the electrons out to further orbits the gases will take on a stronger charge.
The charged gases may give more bang for the buck.

Here's a picture:ftp://