SPIKE'S BURTHA CELL

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Hi Spike,

Looks like a military rocketlauncher!
Wel made!
 

br
Steve

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Steve

It's got just as many tubes as my Karebill 12,
Not all the tubes were seamless on my Karebill, These are.
Increased surface area 60%,
Reduced gap by 50%.
Reduced voltage loss
Maintaining flow with a livewell pump,
 That only draws 1.5 Amps
  Hoping to break 700cc/min on tap h2o 

The only problem I had with the karebill, was the glue seams  :'( .
So I may go another route bonding the decks to the ends.
Turtle seems to have found a good glue.
Or I may plastic weld them.

Spike

[Hidden]

Steve

It's got just as many tubes as my Karebill 12,
Not all the tubes were seamless on my Karebill, These are.
Increased surface area 60%,
Reduced gap by 50%.
Reduced voltage loss
Maintaining flow with a livewell pump,
 That only draws 1.5 Amps
  Hoping to break 700cc/min on tap h2o 

The only problem I had with the karebill, was the glue seams  :'( .
So I may go another route bonding the decks to the ends.
Turtle seems to have found a good glue.
Or I may plastic weld them.

Spike

Sounds good, Spike.
And yes, Keith knows lots of mechanical stuff and solutions. He should know the right glue.

Br
Steve

[keithturtle]

Uh, the glue I mentioned in the plate cell thread probably won't be the best choice in this application.

CHeck the LORD Fusor tech team for the optimal glue. http://www.ellsworth.com/gluedoctor.html

If you aren't using any caustic e-lyte, you can use model airplane epoxy, and add polyester bulking agent to get the viscosity up.  CHeck with Atlanta Hobby or any hobby shop.   Use 30 min to allow plenty of set time.

If it's simply a matter of sealing threads, Goop marine is tops, and it can be taken apart later whilst epoxy has to be heated beyond what yer PVC can stand to make it let go

Turtle

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Thanks Turtle

I'll check into that other glue. 

Spike