Author Topic: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly  (Read 123481 times)

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Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« on: September 27, 2009, 01:01:05 am »
Stan had two alternators. (at least)

One was a Delco Remy, this is what is shown in the desktop demonstration,

and what is featured in the International Test Evaluation Report,

Also given in the International Report, is the Schematic of this setup FOR the DELCO REMY

I want to point out the important things in this:
it says "Voltage Level Output Determined by Number of Turns per Pickup Coil"
also, there are only THREE DIODES

The other schematic given in the International is this one,

The important thing here is where is says


So now we go to the Tech Brief, and look up the VIC Rotary Circuit 8-11
WE SEE TWO different circuits...


Now lets look at the OTHER time we know he used a different alternator,

This is from the 1984 News Release, also the same time as the video of him idling the dune buggy on water
This is NOT a Delco Remy, I do not know what this alternator is, but I will find out soon enough.
Someone once posted this picture suggesting it was a Ford Truck Alternator,

And that looks pretty close? ... To be Confirmed...

We also have the pictures of the PCB that Stan used in his alternator,


This PCB has space for SIX diodes.

And Finally

This picture shows the PCB inside his alternator, you can see there are SIX diodes soldered in, this is NOT a Delco Remy, the brushes are in a different spot, i remember from mine as i modified it.

This is the alternator he used while idling the dune buggy, and maintaining pressure at 13.75 psi.
This circuit was one of the 8-11 circuits, with 6 Diodes, so my best guess is this one,

This has 6 diodes. It also has Resonant Charging Chokes.

As I just learned from Hydro, chokes will not work outside of the alternator unless you use another pulsing circuit, because the ripple is too smooth, the chokes will be smoked, so the chokes are INSIDE the alternator, also the diodes are INSIDE the alternator, so they get the full pulsing field from the rotor.

This also means the chokes are pulsed with an Alternating Magnetic Field from the rotor, and the Blocking diodes are connected somewhere in the middle of each phase winding to separate the 'secondary' from the chokes.

Another detail is that these chokes could be bifilar wound, and they could be made of resistive SS wire.

If you have or have had an alternator pulsing your cell, help, let's figure this out!


If you don't have an alternator set up, and you go off topic, i will remove your post.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2009, 01:10:12 am »
I have figured out how to rewind the alternator for the Unipolar Crossover Pulse-Train.

If you plan on rewinding your alternator I will show you how I will do mine.

To do the crossover voltage burst sync pulse, is the same except with the secondary center-tapped and an external choke to ground, which I may try eventually.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2009, 17:50:55 pm by Donaldwfc »

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2009, 17:04:56 pm »


This shows how to connect it after you have wound it properly.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2009, 17:33:50 pm »
Unipolar Crossover Pulse-Train Winding Description

Figure out how many turns you can fit in the stator with your chosen gauge of wire, divide this by 6.
Wind each phase Trifilar, three wires wrapped simultaneously, marking each end of your wires.
You will have 18 "ends" to connect, so make sure you label them damn good.
Insert each phase like "normal", with proper winding direction and "additive" magnetic field orientation.
When the phase is laid in the stator it will make a complete circle, so the start and end of the wires will meet.
Starting from "Negative"
Connect "Negative" to "Bottom Choke Start" for each phase.
Connect "Bottom Choke End" to "Secondary Start" for each phase.... *Possibly* connect "Isolated Ground" here.
Connect "Secondary End" to "Blocking Diode Anode" for each phase.
Connect "Blocking Diode Cathode" to "Top Choke Start" for each phase.
Connect "Top Choke End" to "Isolation Diode Anode" for each phase.
Connect "Isolation Diode Cathode" to "Positive" for each phase.

That should be better than a picture anyway.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2009, 23:09:31 pm »
All you do is input 0-12 volts DC into the field windings, and power it with a constant speed motor. That is why it is called the "Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator" - because it does ALL of that.

I don't believe gating is required at all for this set up.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2009, 00:06:15 am »
All you do is input 0-12 volts DC into the field windings, and power it with a constant speed motor. That is why it is called the "Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator" - because it does ALL of that.

I don't believe gating is required at all for this set up.

You can play with the signal after the fact , I can easily make an triac pulse or gate it , theres a circuit with that thing .

Whatever it is , a solid state version will be at least 3 times more efficient from what I have calculated , there is a maximum of 40% power loss from the total load ( cell ) .

How much was Stan before the cell is what I wanna know , I know he was using very low amps going to the cell .

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2009, 00:08:21 am »
Well pulsing or gating the Stator makes it even more inefficient. for every pulse or gate you turn off the stator for, you are still running your drive motor and field coils. If you were able to use the gating to make the cell resonate... then maybe, but i'm not getting into that myself.

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Re: Rotary Pulse Voltage Frequency Generator Assembly
« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2009, 20:17:58 pm »
There is another picture missing I can't seem to find it yet on my hard drive.
The board in the alternator then a heat sink metal board above that one.
Try to find that picture.